Selecting your puppy – which one will you have?

I thought it might be helpful to talk about selecting a puppy from a litter.  Another week goes by and I have received more enquiries for puppies.  I hear from some really lovely people and I hate to disappoint them.  But unfortunately I am not a puppy farm, so I can’t produce puppies every week.  If I’m lucky, I will have half a dozen puppies each year, but things rarely go according to plan.

That is why I try to support people when they have to go looking elsewhere.  It’s such a challenge, to find a Responsible Breeder who is also hopefully a Kennel Club Assured Breeder.

Choosing your breeder

You’ve decided to ‘do it properly’.  You’ve chosen what type of dog to have, then narrowed it down to your breed,  perhaps by attending an event such as Discover Dogs.  Then you look at the list of breeders for your breed, such as the Assured Breeders for Border Collie.  You contact them all, get onto some waiting lists.  

Finally the day arrives when a litter is born and you are on the list!  Yay!  Now what?  How do you go about selecting your puppy?

Breeder’s criteria

If you are lucky, you will be at the end of the list and the breeder will present you with a  puppy and say “you can have this one”.  If you have done your research and chosen the right breed for you and your lifestyle, then the best breeder you can find, then it truly, honestly will not matter which of the actual puppies you have.

Of course there will be occasional issues with one particular puppy.  But in terms of the temperament of the puppies from a litter, I can promise you that they will be like their parents and affected by the home they have been bred into.

By the time my puppies are three weeks old, I can start to see subtle differences between their characters.  Even though they are only just up and about, with their eyes open, I can sense that one will be slightly more outgoing and confident, while another might be more cuddly.  That’s because I spend hours with them every single day.

When you visit a litter, even if you are there for over an hour, you are unlikely to really see their characters.  They might even all be asleep when you are there.  If one crawls over to you,  it doesn’t mean he has chosen you!  So if the breeder says she thinks one will be more suitable for your lifestyle or circumstance, please listen to her?

Boy or girl?

Which sex of puppy you get will depend on your circumstances.  If you are having your first ever dog as an adult (even if you grew up with dogs), I recommend getting a dog, rather than a bitch.  Dogs are more sociable with other dogs, particularly Border Collies, which makes them easier to manage when you are out walking and meet other dogs.  They are also a bit more ‘robust’ with younger children and better able to cope with being an only dog, in my opinion.

Other than that, it doesn’t really matter which sex of puppy you have.  So when selecting one from a litter, choose the temperament you want, not the sex?

What colour?

When selecting a puppy, it is easy to focus on what it looks like.  I often have people say they want a particular colour – that they have searched far and wide for a particular ‘look’.  I find this rather disappointing, if I’m honest.  Border Collies come in many varied colours, shapes and sizes.  They have all different kinds of ears, and markings.  Their coats can be curly or straight.  They can be fluffy or quite short coated.  So even if you think you have a certain ‘look’ in mind, you might end up with something completely different!

I regularly have people say that they want a different colour from their last, beloved collie, because they don’t want to replace him.  Hmm, I doubt that this one would be at all similar, even if it was another black and white collie, with ‘classic’ markings.  Oh and what are those, by the way?  Wouldn’t you rather have Aura?  I know I would.

Don’t forget that if you were having a Labrador, it would be golden, chocolate or black.  (Or possibly red).  That’s the only choice you get.  So does it really matter that much?

Keep an open mind

My best advice to you is to keep an open mind and listen to the breeder.  They know their dogs, they know what the puppies will be like and they understand what will work for you.

By all means pick the one that stumbles into your lap for a cuddle, but be prepared for the fact that that one might already be taken.  Try to be happy that you have carefully chosen the right breed, the right breeder and the right litter.   Then take your puppy home. They will then become the dog you make them, influenced by the way you raise them.

Ask for help?

You are very welcome to CONTACT ME to ask for my advice.  I can help you with a variety of issues and problems around getting a dog and suggestions for tackling training issues.  Go to the What Dog? page for more information on my service.

Please let me know if you have found this post helpful? Photos by Bridget Davey Photograpy

Remember..

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think.  If you want to know more, why not FOLLOW ME?  Then you will receive an email when there is a new post.

NB: If you read my posts in an email, you may be missing out on the lovely pictures!  Please click through to my website to see the post in all its glory!

Buying a puppy requires patience and care

I want a puppy and I want it NOW!  I am reminded of Veruca Salt in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.  In today’s consumer society, we are accustomed to being able to buy something immediately.  Especially with online purchases.  I have recently signed up to that horrible company’s ‘Top’ service, where something comes before you’ve ordered it.  This makes it harder than ever to wait when buying something so meaningful.

Buying a sofa

Buying a puppy is not a quick job, on the whole.  You need to think of it as being a cross between buying a sofa and getting a job.  If you are buying a sofa, you think about what you like.  You reflect on what will go with your home and your lifestyle.  Perhaps you try out a few first, or talk to friends about their sofas and what works for them.

Then you go to the sofa shop.  You decide what you want to pay and narrow down your choices.  If there is a salesperson available, you listen to their advice and take note of their suggestions.  You might want a particular version of the sofa.  So you are prepared to wait.  Your order will take 9 weeks, you are told.  That’s fine you say.

That’s how long it takes to make a puppy.  Not too long to wait really, is it?  Delivery takes a bit longer, as your puppy needs to be ready for you, so allow another 8 weeks.  If you can be patient, you should get just what you are looking for.  Made to order, so to speak.

Making a job application

When you apply for a job, you start by looking at what’s available.  Reading through the adverts and matching it to your requirements.  You might have a list of criteria drawn up:

• earn lots of money
• good additional benefits
• reasonable hours
• friendly colleagues

What would a list look like for your puppy?

• not too big (but big enough to cuddle)
• not too hairy (dogs ARE hairy, all the better to snuggle into)
• won’t chew the house (it will!)
• will be obedient (if you train it, it will be)

Next, you write an application.  Here’s one I received yesterday:

“I am writing to enquire wether you have any  puppies to sell. I am looking for a KC registered Border Collie, health checked, wormed, vaccinated and, of course, micro-chipped.”

Now tell me honestly, would you give that person the job?  Would you think, yes, I would like that person to have one of my puppies?  I’m pleased they want it to be registered, health checked etc, but who are they?

Just as a person recruiting for a job receives hundreds of applicants, a responsible breeder receives hundreds of enquiries for puppies.  I could sell a few hundred pups a year, if I wanted to.  Unfortunately, I only produce half a dozen a year.  So the homes I send them to must be super special.

Vetting puppy homes

I vividly remember going to buy Sunny – the only dog I have bought (see My life in dogs) and being vetted by her breeder.  I had assumed that because I already had a couple of collies and the breeder was a friend of a friend, that I would obviously be getting what I wanted.  Not a bit of it!  I was judged on how I handled the pups and talked about my dogs.  I had decided I wanted to do agility and breed from her and that had to be considered.

Never assume, because that makes an ASS out of U and ME.  This applies to buying a puppy as much as anywhere else.  You are not entitled to a puppy, just because you have the money.

You get what you pay for

Finally, be aware that when buying a puppy, just at with any other purchase, you get what you pay for.  Something that is cheap and where you have to make no effort to get it will probably not have been produced with much love or care.  Unfortunately that might mean a life of pain for you and your dog, both figuratively and literally.

Remember..

If you are buying a dog, start by looking at the What Dog? page, then contact me?  Part of this service is that I will provide a form for you to fill in.  This acts like a CV, enabling you to demonstrate who you are clearly to other breeders.

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think.  If you want to know more, why not FOLLOW ME?  Then you will receive an email when there is a new post.

What should a dog cost?

This is the question I am wrangling with today; what is the value of a dog?  Fortunately, the days of a dog being ‘free to a good home’ are gone, on the whole; we value our dogs too much to let them go lightly.  In fact if you ever see an advert for a dog that is free, please advise that person that the dog may be scooped up and used as bait for dog fighting, sadly.

Generally though, you should expect to pay for a dog.  It would be lovely to think that the more you pay, the more valuable the dog, but sadly that is definitely NOT the case.  If you pay a vast sum of money for a dog, you are probably being conned. So what should you pay?

Pedigree puppies

Here is an example of some prices for pedigree puppies:

• Border Collie – £850
• Great Dane – £1100
• German Shepherd – £950
• Cavalier King Charles – £1200
• Cocker Spaniel – £900
• Labrador – £850
• Pug – £1250
• French Bulldog – £2000
• Bulldog – £2250

This perfectly demonstrates that the ‘breeds of the moment’ cost more than breeds that have been popular for a long time.  Those which have been around a while will be bred by responsible breeders, whereas the popular breeds may well be imported or bred by those doing it for commercial reasons.

Crossbreed puppies

• Labradoodle – £600
• Cockapoo – £400
• French Bulldog x pug – £650
• Staffie cross – £400
• Chugs – £750
• etc

I wish I hadn’t looked at this – it’s so depressing!  Monsters being created.  If you mix a toy breed with a terrier, what do you get?  Something that sits quietly on your lap, or something that runs off after rabbits?  If it’s cute and fluffy and looks a bit like a wolf then guess what? It might grow up to be like a wolf!

Why do pedigree dogs cost more?

I know I go on about it all the time, but the reason is simple: pedigree dogs are bred on purpose to be healthy, happy, perfect examples of their breed.  Not just “I’ve got two dogs, wonder what will happen if I let them mate?”  Pedigree breeders have to find a suitable, health tested sire for their litter.  They pay to have their dog health tested.  They make sure that they have suitable whelping facilities. They feed their bitch expensive food to supplement her diet.  They health test the puppies.  They make sure they are microchipped. They spend time socialising their puppies and helping them to grow into confident dogs.  They provide a puppy pack, with guidance and support to the new owners…  And above all, you know EXACTLY what you are getting!

Rescue puppies/dogs

I looked on the Battersea Dogs Home site and it says:

Our rehoming fee is £135 for dogs (over six months) or £165 for puppies (under six months). The cost includes a full veterinary and behavioural assessment, microchipping, initial vaccinations, a collar, identification tag and lead.

Sounds like a great deal, doesn’t it? It might be cheaper, but it’s not necessarily easier.  You will definitely be vetted, with a home visit.  You might not qualify, if you have other dogs, or young children, or you work full time, or you have a cat, or your garden is not secure…

You will definitely be doing a good thing, having a rescue dog, but you may get more than you bargained for!  I would definitely say, don’t get a rescue dog because it is cheaper!

Top tips regarding the price of dogs

1. Please don’t have a breed or type of dog just because everyone seems to have one?  Try and decide on a particular dog on its own merit?
2. Please don’t be determined to get a certain ‘look’ or colour?  An unusual colour might mean the dog is not what you think it is!
3. Please don’t think that the more expensive a dog is, the more valuable it is?  It might just be that people are jumping on the (French Bulldog) bandwagon and realising they can charge more because everyone wants one.
4. Please try and take account of the way a dog has been raised and the care that has been lavished on it?  That is the true value of a dog.

Ask for help?

Yet another area with different issues!  Fortunately there is plenty of help available.  If you are buying a dog, start by looking at the What Dog? page.  Or if you want to breed, read this Dog Breeding Blog and then please CONTACT ME to discuss this, as I may be able to mentor you?

Remember..

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think.  If you want to know more, why not FOLLOW ME?  Then you will receive an email when there is a new post.

What dog will best suit you?

Where do you start when choosing a dog for the first time? It’s such a minefield. The Kennel Club lists over 200 pedigree breeds of dog and of course these day there are numerous crossbreeds to add to the confusion. I think we should start by considering what we should NOT be thinking about.

What should you NOT consider when choosing a dog?

In my opinion (humble or otherwise) you should NOT start your search for your best friend thinking about:

• Cuteness – puppies are cute, dogs not so much
• Ugliness – oh it’s so ugly – bulgy eyes, snuffley nose, wrinkly skin; all equals unhealthy
• Cuddliness – do you want a dog, or a stuffed toy? Or a cat? Lots of dogs HATE being cuddled
• Fashion – just because everyone else has one, does NOT make it the right dog for you

Types of dog

What are the criteria for choosing a dog?  The Kennel Club categorise dogs into 7 different Breed Groups.  This is for showing pedigree dogs, but I think it’s an interesting place to begin.

The groups are as follows:

1. Gundogs – eg Spaniels.  Dogs originally trained to find and retrieve game.
2. Working – eg Schnauzers. These are mainly used for guarding and include the Boxer, Great Dane and St Bernard.
3. Pastoral – eg Border Collies.  These are herding dogs, usually working with cattle, sheep, reindeer etc.
4. Toy – eg Bichon Frise. Companion or lap dogs.  Not all small dogs are toy dogs, some are terriers for example – there is a difference!
5. Utility – eg Poodles.  These are breeds of a ‘non-sporting origin’, including the Bulldog, Dalmatian and Akita
6. Terrier – eg Bedlington.  Dogs used for hunting vermin. Brave and tough
7. Hound – eg Beagle. Breeds used for hunting by scent or by sights.  Also includes Greyhounds.

Straight away, there are all sorts of difficulties.  A breed might be small, but is not a ‘toy’ breed.  It might be a terrier, but be really big, such as an Airedale terrier.  The Utility group in particular is described as being a varied group of miscellaneous breeds!  So it’s not really much use to us when thinking about the kind of dog we want.  However, don’t dismiss it completely, as it will give you an indication of the type of work the dog was originally intended for and therefore what drives its behaviour.

Other ways of defining dogs

What kinds of criteria are we actually going to have when choosing a dog?  Here are some suggestions:

• Size – definitely a key point to consider.  These days, people tend to live in fairly small spaces.  We usually live in a town or a city and we don’t have a big garden.  That doesn’t mean we can’t have a dog, just that we need to be aware of how that animal will fit into the space available.  One dog will pretty much fit anywhere though, so it does start off with your personal preference.  It’s not so much about how big they are, as how active they are.
• Activity – some dogs really do need more exercise than others.  Having said that, ALL dogs need exercise, just as we do ourselves.  They all need to go outside to toilet, and they really do need to have the mental stimulation of a walk.  Even toy dogs need this!  However, toy dogs and a fair number of other breeds, manage perfectly well with a small amount of exercise, which with today’s busy lifestyles can only be a good thing.  Surprisingly, Greyhounds do NOT need masses of long walks; they are sprinters, so generally spend their time pootling about.  Similarly, very large dogs, such as Great Danes, do not benefit from long walks.

Hair everywhere?

Hair – a key criteria for many people.  I think many people have had experience of a Labrador, where the whole house is covered in hair.  They are classified as a ‘shedding’ breed, which means that their short coat is continually being replaced (and therefore ‘shed’ all over the place!)  People seem to consider this to be a major drawback with having a dog.  Personally, with today’s hard floors and efficient vacuum cleaners, I cannot see why it is a problem.  There are many other drawbacks to dog ownership and I don’t think this is the worst!  Other breeds might ‘moult’; this is when the coat comes out all at once, usually once or twice a year, eg Border Collies.  You can make a replacement dog from the hair at these times, but it’s only for a few weeks.

I think it is worth highlighting here that if a dog doesn’t shed or moult, they will need to be clipped.  This is a regular, lifetime requirement and costs money!  Of course you can learn to do it yourself but either way, the coat requires regular maintenance.  Moulting and shedding dogs’ coats are generally self-maintaining.  You obviously need to check them over regularly, but you shouldn’t have to spend a great deal of time and money looking after their coat.

More considerations

• Temperament – this is really the heart of you thinking about your dog and what you want from it.  Do you want to cuddle it?  Many breeds of dog do NOT like to be cuddled.  You should find that a well-bred puppy raised in a sympathetic environment will enjoy sitting on the sofa with you, but this is by no means guaranteed.  Toy dogs have been specifically designed to be picked up and carried around, but remember this does not include all small dogs.  Equally, some large dogs really love a snuggle, but just because it is hairy doesn’t mean it likes you in its face.  An Afghan Hound would be a good example of that kind of dog.

• Trainability – some dogs are easier to live with than others!  People believe that because Border Collies are intelligent that means they are easy to train, but it is not quite that simple… If you don’t need a dog that can read :p, turn left or right on a word command or need you to do something with it for several hours a day, don’t get a collie.
• Health – it’s a bit worrying that this is so far down the list, but there you go, it’s not the most important aspect of choosing a dog, in most people’s view.  People think that pedigree dogs are unhealthy compared with crossbreeds, or mongrels, but in fact the opposite can be true.  Responsible, pedigree dog breeders are working extremely hard to produce the best dogs possible and to breed out anything that can be tested for.

Buy the Workbook

The Workbook – A Year With Your Puppy is available to buy. It was written and designed to be a hands-on, interactive book for you. It will help you survive the first year with your puppy, but also act as a memento of that time and the journey you have been on. You can write notes and stick in pictures of your puppy throughout the year. Lovely!

Remember..

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think. 

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Should you always try to rescue a dog?

Who wouldn’t want an adorable dog like this?  He is lovely and in the right home, can be a huge success.  I have had a rescue dogs myself (twice, albeit from family members) so I know that it’s a great way to get a dog.  But…Sticking my neck out here, it’s not perfect.  There are pros and cons to rescuing dogs.  Let’s have a look at a few?

Pros for rescue dogs

• You are doing a great thing, saving a dog from a ‘horrible’ home.
• Sometimes dogs are in rescues for unavoidable reasons.  People’s circumstances change – their job, their relationship, their home, their family.  All of these can impact on someone’s ability to keep their dog.  A dog may need a new home because the owner has died – clearly that is a good reason for a dog to go elsewhere.
• You can get the dog you want, straight away.  If you look hard enough, most dog breeds can be found in rescue.
• You don’t need to have a puppy, so you don’t have to go through the challenges of house training, coping with chewing and everything else a puppy brings!
• It’s better to get an adult dog if you work, because it is easier to leave it.

Cons with rescue dogs

• Rescue centres have stringent vetting processes for people wanting a dog from them.  Often they won’t allow a rescue dog to go to a family with young children, or to a home where the owners work full time.  Or a home with cats.
• You don’t know what you are getting.  Of course you can usually tell more or less what breed a dog is and how old it is, roughly, but you may not know much else.  Rescue centres are great at providing a history of their dogs, but they may not have been told the full story.  That’s because..
• People lie.  That lovely young border collie, perfect for agility?  Actually has a physical defect which is causing major pain and lameness.  This might need surgery to correct, which is traumatic for you and the dog, not to mention expensive.  You will then need months of rehabilitation and training to restore fitness and confidence.

Other challenges with rescue dogs

• Dogs have issues.  Dogs that have been mistreated are fearful, which in turn leads to aggression.  This can be with other dogs, or with people, or just with children.  Or with cars, or bikes, or loud noises….  All of these issues can be worked through and progress can be made, but dogs with issues can be irreparably damaged and it may take the patience of a saint to deal with these.
• Poor behaviour.  Dogs belonging to ‘dog’ people who are familiar with dogs and have owned them for many years are not placed into rescues.  Dogs in rescues have often belonged to people who don’t know what they are doing.  Worse still, they don’t care about their dog enough to train it and manage it well.  So you are taking on those problems and have to undo them before you can start training effectively.  This might be something as simple as persistent barking (very persistent barking!)  But re-training this behaviour can take years.
• Easy-going, confident, well-behaved dogs are not placed into rescue centres.

Other factors to consider with rescues

It’s difficult isn’t it?  You want to do the right thing and feel that because it’s not the dog’s fault (it’s almost never the dog’s fault) they should be given a second chance.  Still, there are a few keys points you must also bear in mind:

If you rescue a dog, you are condoning its abandonment in the first place.  You are effectively saying “It’s OK if you can’t be bothered to take care of your dog properly, I will do it for you.”  You are accepting the fact that we live in a disposable society where people demand instant gratification and don’t care about the consequences.  As long as rescue centres exist, people will think they can just get rid of their dogs.

Yes of course I know that people get rid of dogs anyway and that rescue centres are run by saints and heroes.   Yes I know that people make honest mistakes and circumstances change.  However, in my experience, people who make honest mistakes are big enough to own up to them and do something positive about it (returning their dog to its breeder, for example) and people whose circumstances change work as hard as they can to find a solution from amongst friends and family.

Most importantly..

If ALL dogs were bought from responsible breeders, who were supported by a legislative body that monitored breeding and the welfare of dogs, then people would expect to wait for a suitable dog.  Guidance would be given to buyers about the right kind of dog for their lifestyle.  Breeders would provide good quality dogs of appropriate temperament and health, saving the owners money and psychological anguish.

The reason dogs are NOT all bought from responsible breeders is that demand far outstrips supply.  Responsible breeders cannot breed sufficient dogs, without scaling up their breeding into a commercial enterprise which becomes, yes you’ve guessed it, a puppy farm.

What is the solution?

In my view, the solution is to education the public about dog ownership.  Dogs are not toys.  They might be soft, fluffy and cuddly, or have cute faces, but they are LIVING BEINGS.  Dogs have thoughts, emotions, feelings and opinions.  They are sentient creatures, who deserve a good life.  This means that if you let a dog into your life, you are responsible for its care.  You will need to invest time and energy into managing it and caring for it.

“A dog is for life, not just for Christmas”

My opinion is that we can teach people to be more critical about the place they get their dog from.  If they know what a great dog looks and behaves like, then there is a possibility that they won’t be satisfied with a dog that flinches every time you go near it, or barks constantly.

Unfortunately, it is unlikely that this will happen naturally.  We will probably need the ongoing support of that legislative body I mentioned, the good old Kennel Club.  But I believe that we can do better for our dogs.

Buy the Workbook

The Workbook – A Year With Your Puppy is available to buy. This book is a hands-on, interactive book for you. It will help you survive the first year with your puppy, but also act as a memento of that time and the journey you have been on. You can write notes and stick in pictures of your puppy throughout the year. Lovely! Find out lots more by looking at the Contents page.

Remember..

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think. 

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Buying a puppy myth No 1: Crossbreeds are healthier

I was asked recently by someone buying a puppy if I knew any ‘Maltipoo’ breeders.  No.  I don’t know any breeders of crossbreeds.  I suggested they bought a Maltese.  Why does it need to have a bit of ‘poo’ in it?  It seems that everyone is obsessed with having a poodle cross, so that there is no dog hair.  That is great, except that you are still going to have mud, wee, poo (actual poo!) and chewing.  You still need to be 100% committed to having a dog and taking care of a LIVING BEING.

I looked up Maltipoo and found the info page on Pets4homes/maltipoo which I thought was really informative.  It lists the health issues for the ‘breed’ along with whether or not these can be tested for.  Crucially, the site says “Today, there are first generation (f1) Maltipoos, second generation, third and fourth generation Maltipoos, but what are considered the healthiest are first generation dogs“.  How will you know which generation you are getting?  For pedigree dogs, the heritage is known, but crossbreed breeders rarely provide that level of information.

Health issues when buying a puppy

It was interesting to read about the health issues for Maltipoos.  The page lists 13 health issues for Maltese, of which only two can be tested to prevent.  Poodles (toy and miniature) have an additional 23 possible health issues, or which only 4 can be tested to prevent.  Wow, I’d be concerned about this, particularly as some of these issues have serious implications for the quality of life of the dog.

By contrast, the page for Pets4homes/Border Collie, lists 8 health issues, ALL of which have health tests available, other than for epilepsy. This means that you are far less likely to have health issues from a PEDIGREE Border Collie.

Myth No 2: I need to see both parents to know if I am getting a good dog

When you are buying a puppy from a responsible breeder, you are unlikely to see both parents.  Most pedigree breeders want to have parents that are unrelated, so they are usually owned by different people.  When you are buying a pedigree dog, you can check the health and parentage of the parents before you go and look at the puppies.  So you will know what they are like.  The Kennel club – mate select lists all the registered pedigree dogs with their health tests for you to check.  In addition, for Border Collies we have the Anadune database which gives us a great deal of information.

If an owner has both parents, they are usually a casual breeder who has just thought it would be ‘fun’ to have some puppies.  Often a crossbreed (see above) and often without bothering about available health tests.

Myth No 3: As long as I take it to the vet when I get it, that will be fine

Yes of course you should definitely get your puppy checked over by a vet when you get it.  But that won’t make it healthy!  The vet can tell you whether your puppy has been well raised and nurtured, from a health point of view.  They can give their expert opinion about whether or not it is from good stock.  It might be possible to identify serious health issues, such as a heart defect.  You might then decide to take the dog back to the breeder, who might then sell it on to some other poor sap.

However, it’s already too late for most health issues.  Again, it’s about having the dog bred from healthy parents – that is the crucial factor in determining long-term health.  Many of the issues that will end up costing you money in the long term cannot be identified by the vet at 8 weeks of age.

Buying a puppy at any cost?

“We will still love it, even if it has health issues”

OK, that’s fair enough for you.  But what about the poor dog?  You are sentencing it to a life of pain and suffering, because you couldn’t be bothered to buy it from someone who tried to ensure that it would be as healthy as possible.  Not to mention the stress, anxiety and suffering that you will go through alongside your dog, every time it is ill.  Oh and don’t forget the thousands of pounds you could pay in vet’s bills, especially if the insurers can determine that it was a ‘pre-existing condition’.

Anyway, why would you do that?  Why would you choose to buy a dog, without being sure that it is as healthy as it can be?  After all, you wouldn’t buy a car without knowing it was safe to drive, would you?

Buy the Workbook

The Workbook – A Year With Your Puppy is available to buy. This book is a hands-on, interactive book for you. It will help you survive the first year with your puppy, but also act as a memento of that time and the journey you have been on. You can write notes and stick in pictures of your puppy throughout the year. Lovely! Find out lots more by looking at the Contents page.

Remember..

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think. 

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Why would you want a pedigree dog?

When you breed a pedigree dog, you are deliberately choosing to mate one particular dog, with another.  You examine their breed lines and consider their individual characteristics.  I am going to write about choosing a stud dog separately, as this is a whole challenge in itself.  But basically, the breeder decides what kind of dog they want to create.

Personally, I started out by wanting a red and white border collie – Sunny.  Then I wanted to have more red and white dogs, so I found a stud dog who was also red and white (actually Sunny is a chocolate and white, as she is so dark, so that led me down an even more specific path).  The choices I have made since then have created puppies with very particular characteristics.

Family likenesses

I can show you many examples of my puppies and dogs and how alike they look.  I can also give you many examples of how alike my puppies are in their temperament.  Because I have so much contact with my puppies, I know that they continue to bear a strong likeness to their parents. Here is just one for you:

I like this particular example because Oz has such distinctive ears!  And this is a trait he has clearly passed on to his daughter(s)!  If you met these dogs in passing you would struggle to tell them apart, wouldn’t you?  When my friend Jane and I put Luna and her sister Nell together, even we struggle to tell them apart!

If anyone has ever told you that you look just like your parent(s), or that your children are the spitting image of you, then you can go some way towards understanding pedigree dog breeding.

What is a pedigree dog?

Let’s look at a definition:

“A pedigree dog is the offspring of two dogs of the same breed, which is eligible for registration with a recognised club or society that maintain a register for dogs of that description. There are a number of pedigree dog registration schemes, of which the Kennel Club is the most well known.”

The Kennel Club is the organisation responsible for managing the registration of all pedigree dogs in the UK and they also register all dogs whose owners want to take part in dog activities, such as obedience or agility competitions – these dogs can included crossbreeds and dog of unspecified origin.

Breed standard

The Kennel Club start off by setting a breed standard for each pedigree.  The KC website defines a breed standard as follows: “A Breed Standard is the guideline which describes the ideal characteristics, temperament and appearance including the correct colour of a breed and ensures that the breed is fit for function. Absolute soundness is essential. Breeders and judges should at all times be careful to avoid obvious conditions or exaggerations which would be detrimental in any way to the health, welfare or soundness of this breed.”

In other words, the very definition of a pedigree dog is that it is fit and healthy, with a good temperament and being fit for purpose.  Breed standards then go on to define aspects of each breed in more detail, which for a border collie includes:

Characteristics

Tenacious, hard-working sheep dog, of great tractability.

Temperament

Keen, alert, responsive and intelligent. Neither nervous nor aggressive.

Conclusion on pedigree dogs

ALL dogs have been ‘designed’ by humans. Over time, the dogs that are classed as pedigree are the ones that consistently have the same look and nature, or temperament. We are still changing and fiddling with dog design, creating new models all the time, because that is what humans enjoy doing. Speeding up ‘natural selection’ for our own choices and whims.

We need to remember this when we choose a particular look, or type. Has it been bred responsibly and rigorously? Or just to satisfy customer demands?

Buy the Workbook

The Workbook – A Year With Your Puppy is available to buy. This book is a hands-on, interactive book for you. It will help you survive the first year with your puppy, but also act as a memento of that time and the journey you have been on. You can write notes and stick in pictures of your puppy throughout the year. Lovely! Find out lots more by looking at the Contents page.

Remember..

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think. 

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