All posts by Dentbros

Should I breed from my dog?

What do I need to think about if I want to breed from my dog?

Discussing this round the dinner table yesterday, my father-in-law made an interesting point.  He said “If you’re breeding cows, you want to breed them to produce lots of milk.  If you’re breeding racehorses, you want them to run really fast.  But with dogs, you want so much from them.  You want to them to look a particular way, but also to have a good temperament as a pet, and to be keen to do dog sports etc etc.”  It’s a bit of a challenge, isn’t it?

As a breeder, I believe that I am just doing ‘what anyone would do’.  But is appears that this is not the case.  I want to produce the best puppies I can, who will go out there and enhance their owners’ lives.  I want them to be good with people and other dogs, to be ready and keen to learn, to be confident, outgoing dogs.  I want them to be as healthy as they can be and to live long, healthy lives.  I also want them to look fantastic!

In the last couple of days I have heard about a renowned agility trainer and competitor who has a large number of breeding dogs.  They are kept in barns and all mixed in together, so the parentage is not always clear.  They are delivered to their new owners, who do not visit and will not see them with their mum.  They are not registered as pedigrees, so they are not regulated.

I have also heard about a renowned obedience trainer and competitor who has had a fifth litter from a dog aged over 8 years, bred to a cousin probably.  Not ideal. Again, not registered as pedigrees, so not regulated.

Finally, (and most upsettingly) I have learnt that a dog owned by a show breeder who has sired an epileptic pup, has been used to sire another litter.  Because there is no proof that epilepsy is carried genetically and there is no test for epilepsy, they can do this.  Would you buy a pup, knowing that it might develop this disease?

All of these examples demonstrate that dog breeding is a minefield.  For those of us trying to do the right thing, we struggle to find dogs to mate with ours that are from healthy lines and have no temperament issues.

Why bother to breed?

The first thing to think about when considering whether to breed from your dog is why you want to do it.  Please, please do NOT do it for the sake of the dog.  I promise you it is a stressful and difficult process and they won’t thank you for it.  Many dogs hate the mating itself.  The health testing involves sedation and/or anaesthetic.  The births can involve trauma and the feeding is exhausting.   Even for a male dog, the process is hard work and stressful.  Keeping a male entire might seem like the kind thing to do, but you then have a dog being tormented by raging hormones and once used at stud, they will be forever searching for the next female.

I had watched and been involved with my mum having over a dozen litters from 7 different dogs over the years.  She had a very laid back approach and produced lovely puppies without too much difficulty.  I loved my dogs and loved the puppies, so always thought it would be a ‘fun thing to do’.

When I started, I was fortunate to have an experienced breeder to mentor me. She ensured that my dog was fully health tested and advised me about many aspects of breeding that I had not previously considered.  I have run a successful business and am a good administrator, so I have enjoyed that side of breeding, as well as producing lovely dogs.  But I had completely underestimated how emotionally challenging it would be, finding suitable homes and dealing with all the owners, supporting them through the process of taking their puppy home.

Health Testing

Before you do anything else, you need to ensure your dog is as healthy as it can be.  If you go and look at the KC Health testing page you can look up the requirements for each pedigree breed.  Of course if you are breeding a crossbreed, you should ensure that the parents have all the relevant test for their breed.  Poodles need eye testing and Labradors definitely need hip scoring, for example.  As I said, some tests involve the dog being knocked out and all are expensive.

Temperament Development

If you want to breed from your dog, you should ensure that it is of sound temperament.  This means that you need to train it.  If your dog is an uncontrollable maniac, it won’t make very nice puppies.  You need to engage its brain and develop its obedience.  You need it to be good with people, including children and other dogs.  You need to expose your dog to a variety of experiences.  It should be fit and athletic, participating in sports appropriate to its breed.

Proving your dog’s value

In order to demonstrate to people that your dog is worth something, you need to ‘campaign it’.  This means either showing it, or competing it in a sport, or having something to prove that it is not just any old mutt.  Of course eventually, if you have plenty of dogs and you produce lovely puppies, you will have testimonials and people will want to buy from you, being prepared to wait.  However initially, you may well find yourself with ten puppies and no homes for them.

Assured Breeder Scheme

Ideally, you want to become a Kennel Club Assured Breeder.  More about this scheme can be found on the KC website, looking at Assured Breeders for Border Collie for example.

Don’t do it for the money

You won’t make any!  If you go into as a commercial enterprise, you will be a puppy farm, putting the money before the welfare of the dogs.  It costs thousands of pounds and months of time to produce a litter of puppies and doing it on any sort of scale inevitably compromises the dogs.

In Conclusion

Dog breeding is an incredibly exciting and rewarding experience.  It’s certainly the best job I have ever had!  But it is also the worst; the hardest, the most emotional, the most upsetting.  Have a look at this Novice Breeder Checklist and then ask yourself: “is it worth the hassle?”

Remember..

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think.  If you want to know more, why not FOLLOW ME?  Then you will receive an email when there is a new post.

 

 

Recall Retraining Strategy: Some Dos and Don’ts

How to re-build your recall – my top tips

DO: Keep using treats

Some people think they only need to use treats when their puppy is little.  Why?  I still like chocolate and I’m 55 years old!  If you asked me to do something and offered me chocolate I would DEFINITELY do it!  Sunny will always come back to me, no matter whom I call, just in case I feel like giving her a sweetie.  Well of course I do!  She’s 11 years old but if she comes when I call, she deserves a sweetie.  Of course it’s not very big, but so what?

DON’T: Use rubbish treats

The one in my photo here might not look very exciting but my girls like them.  If they weren’t brilliant at coming back and/or didn’t think much of these treats, I would use something else.

Top treats can include:

  • cheese – mild cheddar is not too crumbly, nice and cheap.  Cut into small cubes
  • sausage – ordinary cooked sausage, cut small
  • frankfurters – I slice up quite finely and then cook in the oven for a while. This dries them out so them are easier to handle and last longer
  • liver cake – if you must.  I never do, but people swear by it: liver cake recipe

Whatever you use, it should actually be a reward for your dog.

DO: Be exciting

Why exactly would I return to you if you are boring?  What I am doing over here is much more interesting.  Smells!  Dogs!  Rabbits!  What are you offering?  Hmm, no thanks.

You must be AMAZING!  Look what I’ve got!  Look at my toy!  Do you want it?  Come and get it!  Here it is.. here… or here…

DON’T: Shout at your dog

It’s really not a good idea.  They may never get over it.  Dogs are sensitive creatures; they do not like it when you are unhappy.  If you have several dogs and children, try shouting at one of them (or your other half, even better). What happens?  Everyone disappears!

Yes I know it’s incredibly annoying when they don’t come, but were you exciting?  Did you have yummy sweeties?  Did you offer to play?  Or have a toy?  No?  Well that’s your own fault then.

I’m not even going to mention any kind of physical reprimand.  All that does is make your dog hate you.  Not a top plan.

DON’T: Chase your dog

What a brilliant game that is for your dog!  Yay!  Chase me, chase me!  You can’t catch me though, obviously.  Can you hear your dog laughing?  I can.  Hilarious.

DO: Run away from your dog

Turn and leg it.  Seriously.  This is the time to get on a turn of speed.  And if you can add some excited shouting, such as “Come and see what I’ve got!”  “Sweeties!”  Then you might get their interest.  This is much more likely to work than standing still.  Or chasing them.

DON’T: Wait until the end of the walk to call them back

It’s been a lovely walk but now it’s the end.  Oh you’re not tired and you don’t want to go home yet?  Well too bad, I’m in charge.  Or am I?  When I’m walking the puppy on her own, I might call her back to me twenty times during a 20 minute walk.  These days, walking her with the pack, I only call her back to me 10 times per walk.  “Ounce come”.  Be excited to see her.  Give her some praise.  Feed her a sweetie or two.  Every day, every walk.  She automatically comes to me at the end of the walk.  It’s no big deal.

DO: Use a clear, simple command

“Ounce come”.  Don’t stand still repeating the dog’s name over and over again.  You sound like a wally.  (Unlike when you are running away, shrieking in excitement, when you look AND sound like a wally.)   The more often you say the dog’s name, the less likely they are to wonder what you want.  Be clear, be positive, be firm (but not boring).

Recall Fail – When the puppy doesn’t come back

Dog Doc Question 14: What happens when the puppy stops coming back?

Oops.  Ounce is nearly 7 months old now and this is often when the trouble starts.  She is more or less fully grown (although she will fill out and might creep up a bit more in height).  She is also becoming more mature, which mainly means that she is a bit like a teenager; she thinks she knows best!

Collies are excellent at anticipation – they believe they know what you are going to do before you do.  This is what makes them so great for herding, as they can think like the shepherd and anticipate what the sheep will do.  However, it is a bit of a nightmare for us as we have to try and stop them rushing off.  Basically, she realised we were about to cross the road so ran over it, giving me a heart attack.  I then had to call her back over it so that I could get them all together and make them wait, crossing in a controlled manner.  The road is only 3m wide at that point and it’s pretty quiet, but of course I want to manage it.

I called her back, got her to me and then told her off for running away. Big mistake.  Huge.  She then gave me a filthy look when I called her again, a few minutes later.  She was then saying to me “You told me off, so I am NEVER coming back to you again.”  Lovely.

I spent the next hour trying to re-train the recall, practically from scratch.  I had to turn away from Ounce, with the other dogs on lead and walk away, so that she would follow.  I had to entice her nearer to me and then be actually thrilled that she had come back to me (this is extremely difficult to do when you basically want to kill them).  I had to persevere, leaving her for a few minutes then trying again, repeating the whole rigmarole with the other dogs being called in and rewarded, then put on lead, then a change of direction, then being thrilled that the pup came back.

What a palaver.  Of course it was all my own fault.  You should never call your puppy and then be cross with it.  Even just a cross tone of voice is enough to undo all your hard work.  If she ran across the road then it was my fault.  I have to anticipate that she will anticipate and make sure that I either put her on the lead, or convince her I am going a different way until I know it is safe.

What have I learned?

Lesson learned:  ALWAYS PRAISE THE PUPPY!  Border Collies in particular have what is referred to as ‘poor bounce back’ which means they are unforgiving; you tell me off and I will hate you forever.

Fortunately for me she has forgiven me and today was able to come for a sweetie every time, even with the others all running about.  I’m lucky that I spent so long working with her before I put her in the pack and that I still spend time training her on her own.  Very often when they are in a pack they stop looking at you and just refer to the next one up, which means you have very little chance of getting them back.

When should they go off lead?

I saw this as a question on a social media group for Border Collie owners.  In light of what I have said above, you might think that it is better to wait until they are older before you let them off lead at all. WRONG!  You absolutely MUST let your puppy off lead from day 1 of their walks and then work like crazy on the recall. Have a look at Ounce on her first walk – Puppy’s first walk (so sweet!).  I can’t imagine starting that process so easily with an adult (or teenage) dog, can you?  At the very least, I would have to have a long line.

This is basically like a piece of rope around twenty feet long.  You put the puppy on one end and stand on the other end.  Let him go off for a wander and then call him back after a few minutes.  If he doesn’t respond, give a gentle tug on the line to attract his notice, then call and reward.  Do NOT pull him back to you – he has to want to come back.  The line is for your security, that’s all.  Please DO NOT chase your dog, you will not teach him to come back to you that way!  He must want to come back to you on his own.

Ask me for Advice?

You are very welcome to contact me to ask for my advice.  I can help you with a variety of issues and problems around getting a dog and suggestions for tackling training issues.

If you want to know more, why not FOLLOW ME?  Then you will receive an email when there is a new post.  Please CONTACT ME if you would like help with a specific topic?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think?

Sisters at Play

How do 6 month old puppies play?

Silently.  Watch this video clip and you’ll see something remarkable.  This is Ounce playing with her sister Pixie.  They are having a great game, very interactive and pretty lively, but they make no sound.  As I am saying in the clip, it’s as though they don’t want you to know what they’re up to!

I think for dogs, when it really is just a game, they don’t make any noise.  As soon as one of them is not happy though, you can hear something.  This was demonstrated perfectly (though not filmed, unfortunately) later on in the visit.  Ounce came to have a fuss from Hollie, Pixie’s owner and Pixie didn’t like it.  She was a bit jealous, so she immediately started growling.  In fact when it happened again a bit later, they were right on the edge of a full-on fight.  I yelled at them and it stopped, fortunately.

Funnily enough we were talking about fighting at school yesterday when I went in with Busy.  We discussed ‘play fighting’ and whether it was OK.  We decided it usually isn’t, because someone gets hurt.  “It’ll end in tears” is said for a reason, after all.

With dogs, a bit of lively play is completely fine, if the pair are evenly matched and the play is supervised.  I would never leave two pups this age together without being present; I know it would end in a fight and someone would get hurt.

When Pixie first arrived and they had overcome their initial shyness and started playing, I grabbed a camera to video it, but they then stopped, as they had already run out of steam.  They started again later, but it went on like that, with them taking a break now and again.

I believe that dogs (and children) are much more likely to fight properly when they are bored, tired or hungry.  That was the approach I took with my sons anyway, and I think I do the same with my dogs.  If trouble starts, there are no recriminations.  I just separate them and distract them.  I expect it to happen if they are allowed to carry on for too long and I do not expect them to manage themselves particularly well.

Oh and by the way, do you think Busy was pleased to see her daughter today?  No, she wasn’t.  She doesn’t like other dogs much and having a stupid puppy trying to say hello is just annoying, quite frankly.  That’s why it is not possible to get a pic of Busy and Pixie next to each other.

Finally, have a look at this clip.  What is this game called?  Peekaboo? Hide and seek? Let’s see how long we can play this before the curtain get ripped?  Funny girls.  It was lovely to see Pixie, Sarah and Hollie today.  I am excited to see the Hollie and Pixie partnership up  and running in the future – great things may happen!

Remember..

If you want to know more about Ounce’s Adventures, why not FOLLOW ME?  Then you will receive an email when there is a new post.  Please CONTACT ME if you have a problem you would like me to talk about?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think.

A new trick? Something to make her look sweet

Teaching the youngest dog new tricks

Over the Christmas holidays, I was sent a link to a video from Sarah showing how to teach a ‘head down’ trick.  Here is the video:

The Head Down Trick

Now here is my effort to teach this to Ounce:

I think you can make a number of observations from watching these two videos.  First of all, Sarah and Smurf (and Wilma) are professionals; they really know how to put on a show.  We have much to learn.  Smurf is clearly extremely talented and obedient, as well as being quick to learn.  He is able to follow commands at a distance, which is the main thing we are not yet able to do.

I have waited to post about this because I wanted to video our very first attempt to learn it.  I thought this would be more interesting for my followers than showing Ounce being able to do it already – it’s all about the learning process.

So this is literally me switching on the video and beginning to teach it.  Because of that, it is not the finished production.  You cannot hope to teach a puppy a trick in one sitting.  What you can see, hopefully, is some progression.

To start with, I hold the bottle cap (I didn’t want to use a coin, too hard to handle and was worried she might swallow it for some reason).  I try to get her to touch it with her nose, when I say ‘yes’ and give her a treat.  Can you see how inept I am at doing this compared with Sarah?  You might notice that I don’t have to put a treat behind the cap for Ounce to touch it with her nose.  That is because I have already taught her to ‘touch’ something – a bigger lid – on one or two other occasions.  Just holding out something is enough for her to sniff it.

You can see in the middle of my video that I am trying to get her to sit.  I want to try and put the cap on the floor between her feet.  But she doesn’t really know ‘sit’ as a command on its own, or if she did she has forgotten it.  Instead, she offers me a whole range of other tricks; twisting, lying down, giving a paw etc.  Bless her heart, she is eager to please!

We get there in the end.  She then lies down and I manage to put the cap between her front legs.  Ounce looks at it but doesn’t touch it, twice.  I should then wait for her to figure it out. This is called ‘shaping’, where we wait for the desired behaviour.  Unfortunately I interfere and move the cap, which gives her a massive cue to do what I want.  I do then manage to reward it, but again, it’s pretty poorly managed.

I am not beating myself up about it – it’s hard!  I am trying to demonstrate that even though it is hard, it is manageable.  You can get there, you just need to persevere.  And be patient.

I will try again tomorrow.  One of the things that is confusing me at the moment is the use of the voice commands.  Sarah doesn’t say anything until she has the coin on the floor.  When Smurf starts to put his head down, she says ‘head down’.  I started off saying ‘touch’ meaning ‘put your nose on the lid’.  There are two things wrong with that.  One is that I want ‘touch’ to mean ‘go to the end of the agility equipment and stop with your front feet touching the ground’ and secondly that if I am saying touch the lid, how will Ounce know what to do when the lid is not there?

Hmm.  Maybe you can teach a young dog new tricks but this old dog is finding it quite a challenge!

Remember..

If you want to know more about Ounce’s Adventures, why not FOLLOW ME?  Then you will receive an email when there is a new post.  Please CONTACT ME if you have a problem you would like me to talk about?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think.

Puppy Buying – A Checklist for New Owners

What should you consider when puppy buying?

How do you choose the right dog for you? I was watching a drama on TV last night where a couple who worked long hours decided to get their daughter a dog because she had been pestering for one for ages.  They wanted to cheer her up, so they found an advert for a dog that someone didn’t want any more.  They went into the house, chatted to the man for a few minutes, then the dog appeared and they told the girl she could have it.  Then they took it home.  Is this the correct way for puppy buying, do you think?

Step 1: Assess your current life

Think about your lifestyle, as it is now.  It’s no good thinking you would like to get a dog so you can go on long walks, if you don’t ever go on long walks now.  You must like walking first.  It’s not about hiking in the hills on a daily basis, but you should at least prefer being out to watching TV and you should have some level of fitness.  You also need to be able to cope with a bit of rain, or wind, or sleet, or snow. Dogs don’t care about the weather, but they will be very disappointed if you don’t take them out for a walk every day.

If you work full time, what provision are you prepared to make for your dog? Can you take your dog with you to work?  Are you prepared to pay someone to come in and spend time with your dog and/or walk them for you?  Or do you have a friend, neighbour or family member you can persuade to have your dog for some of the time?

Do you currently have spare time?  Time when you are sitting around doing nothing much?  Or are you able to give up something you currently do?  Dogs take time, no matter how good they are.  I’d say at least 1-2 hours per day, EVERY DAY.

Step 2: Assess what kind of dog you would like

What about holidays?  Where do you like to go?  How long for, abroad or in the UK?  What will you do with a dog when you go away?  Of course there are kennels, but you might not want your dog shut in a cage for a fortnight.  There are good boarding places available, but this costs more and they have less availability.  Again, friends and family can be invaluable, but don’t make assumptions, discuss it with them.

There are plenty of great tools to help you with this.  The absolutely best thing to do is to go to Crufts Dog Show and visit the hall with the Discover Dogs at Crufts display.  They basically have every dog breed you can imagine on display, with real life examples of the dog for you to see and usually touch.  There will be a breeder there, willing to talk to you about their dog and why it is wonderful.  You can easily compare all the different types of dog.  Alternatively, go to the Discover Dogs Show Event in London, in November.

These days of course most people want a ‘designer dog’.  This means a crossbreed, or mongrel.  It is fashionable to give these dogs new names, to demonstrate that they have been purposefully ‘created’ rather than just randomly allowed to happen.  Most of these have ‘poo’ in the name, because they are a poodle crossed with something else.  BUYER BEWARE: Just because it has a funny name does NOT mean it will be an ideal dog for you.  I’ve already talked about some of the health issues in this article Crossbreeds and health

One way to choose the right breed for you is to go through a questionnaire, such as the Find A Dog one the KC website.  I don’t think these are perfect, as I can’t get it to select Border Collie for me!  Perhaps the best thing is to choose a breed based on a dog you know.

Step 3: Find a Breeder when puppy buying

I’ve already talked about this at great length, so won’t be boring about it now.  Look at the KC website and contact all the Assured Breeders  then apply to be on their waiting lists.  NB: Be prepared to WAIT FOR YOUR PUPPY.  It’s not a toy, it takes time to produce a dog.

Here’s a quick reminder of some of the questions to ask your breeder:

  1.  How many dogs do you have?  Can I see them?  Where do they live?  Good breeders might have a number of dogs, but they will be part of the family.  They might spend some time each day in crates or runs, but should be in the house for most of the time.
  2.  How many litters do you have per year?  How many does each dog have?    How old are they when they have the first litter?  And the last?  A litter of puppies is extremely time consuming (or should be!) So the more litters you have, the harder it is to spend time cuddling the pups.  Dogs should have no more than 4 litters each, between the ages of two and eight.
  3.  Who is the sire?  Why was he chosen? How closely related is he to the mother of the litter?  What is the in-breeding coefficient? Stud dogs should be from good lines, fully health tested and with a good temperament.  They should be similar in breeding to the bitch without being too closely related.
  4. What health tests have the parents had?  Can I have copies of these test certificates?  If the correct tests have been done for the breed, copies of these tests should be given to you as part of your puppy pack.

Buy the Workbook

The Workbook – A Year With Your Puppy is available to buy. This book is a hands-on, interactive book for you. It will help you survive the first year with your puppy, but also act as a memento of that time and the journey you have been on. You can write notes and stick in pictures of your puppy throughout the year. Lovely! Find out lots more by looking at the Contents page.

Remember..

Please CONTACT ME if you want to know more about me and my dogs?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think. 

NO PUPPIES AVAILABLE

What is good temperament in dogs?

What does it mean for a dog to have ‘good temperament’?

How would you describe yourself to someone new?  I think my husband might describe me as being ‘high maintenance’.  Intelligent, but a bit tricky, demanding and emotional.  Others might add that I am caring and thoughtful.  My sister would add ‘feisty’.  Thinking about my own temperament makes me realise why I love Border Collies so much – we are pretty similar.

“Beautiful Border Collies, bred for better temperament and health”

I think the picture of Aura above sums her up really well.  She is looking adoringly at me, because she wants me to throw the ball!  She is an extremely loving, caring dog who is generally happy and confident, liking nothing better than to cuddle up to you.  However, she is also a bit neurotic, as she is on the ‘fussy’ side, easily spooked and a bit wired when it comes to coping with different situations.  Aura is the most typically collie of my girls.  She gets really excited when someone arrives, squeaking and wriggling around them, wanting a fuss.  Busy tends to stay in her bed when Chris arrives home, remaining calm and slightly aloof.

Aura reacts to high-pitched noises, such as the food processor, or the knife sharpener, so she starts whining and rushing about when we open the cutlery drawer, in anticipation of ‘something happening’.  If Sunny happens to be singing ‘Happy Birthday’, Aura will get hysterical with excitement and usually bite Sunny.  Not ideal.

All these characteristics are typical for Border Collies.  They are not really a problem for us, as the house is generally pretty quiet and we are easily able to manage Aura, putting her away in another room when making soup, for example.  But they are good examples of how temperament affects the behaviour of our dogs and how we need to manage them.  A great description of Border Collies and why they are so ‘special’ can be found on the Border Collie Breed information page.

What should you be looking for?

The puppy is not like her cousin.  Ounce is much more like her mum, Busy, in that she is relatively placid and easy-going.  This is what I am aiming for in my puppies.  I would like a dog that can ‘cope’ with new situations and not worry about much. I want a dog who is confident enough to go into a new, busy environment and find it interesting and stimulating, rather than stressful.

At the same time, I want my dogs to have ‘focus’ and ‘intent’.  I want them to want to learn and do things for me.  I want them to be motivated to please me, so that I can train them to behave well and ‘work’ in agility, or in school, or doing tricks.  Other breeds of dog are far more easy-going than border collies, but they don’t care about what you want so much.  A Labrador will be happy to hang out, but won’t necessarily work too hard to figure out what you want from them, unless you have sausage of course!

How do we get good temperament?

As so often, good temperament comes down to a combination of nature and nurture.  First of all, we need good lines to breed good dogs from.  I absolutely knew that Ounce would be lovely; easy-going yet engaged, loving and bright, because both her parents are like that.  I’m feisty because I’m like my mum and my son is the same (only one of them thank goodness!)

Once we have the building blocks for good temperament in place, we then need to add to this with a good breeding environment.  As you know, I have my puppies in my house at all times.  They are constantly being handled (cuddled) and I work hard to ensure that they are exposed to as many different people as possible, usually around a hundred in the first eight weeks.

I also work on some basic bits of training and expose the pups to different experiences and all the usual noises that are in a normal family home.  Border Collies are not bred to cope with noise (see Border Collie Breed information), but early exposure really helps.

Finally, I provide my new puppy owners with plenty of information and advice on how to develop their puppies over the first few weeks and months after they take them home.  They are told to take them out and about and introduce them to a variety of situations and environments.

Can you change your dog’s temperament?

I’m not sure about this question.  I know you can change a dog’s (or a person’s) behaviour, but their underlying temperament is harder to alter.  A dog will have a predisposition to cope with life, or not. What do you think?

Ultimately, we want a dog who is happy to live the life we provide for it.  A happy dog is easy to live with and means we don’t have to spend time worrying about it all the time.  We can ask other people to look after it for us, or we can go out for a few hours, without having to rush back, thinking about it howling or wrecking the house.  We can relax in the knowledge that we will have less visits to the vet because our dog is suffering from stress-related illness.

Aura is going to be taking part in the Great Big Hairy Winter Stress Study being run by the Royal Veterinary College (for more details go to RVC Canine Epilepsy Research).  A hair sample will be examined for cortisol levels, indicating her level of stress over time.  I am going to keep a record of her behaviour and activity over the next 3 months, to demonstrate any particular incidents, so that the study can see if there is a spike in stress related to these incidents.  All of this is part of a bigger study to relate stress to epilepsy in dogs, particularly collies.

I have chosen Aura because she is the most likely to get stressed – the others are too laid back to care!  Love my princess!  NB: Stress is not always a bad thing – she is my ace agility girl after all 🙂

Remember..

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Christmas Bandanas!

Something a bit different?

We went to a Christmas market on Sunday – MK Feast at Bradwell Abbey.  Bought these bandanas for the dogs from Baxters Boutique.  How cute are these?

Ounce modelled hers yesterday in her video Ounce’s Showreel.

Father Christmas dog bandana

Alternatively, how about this cute Father Christmas dog bandana?

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Ounce’s Showreel! Clever puppy :)

Look what the puppy can do now!

This is mainly a demonstration of my poor handling – sorry Ounce.  We muddle through though and I believe we demonstrate the following:

  • Stay
  • Come
  • Sit
  • Down
  • Twist
  • Spin
  • Roll over
  • Through legs (various ways)
  • Paw 
  • Speak
  • Tug
  • Touch target
  • Standing spin (we don’t really know that one yet!)
  • Back (definitely needs work)
  • Retrieve
  • On bed (needs work that one)
  • Open door
  • Into bed
  • Shut door (poor equipment with these)

Above all, I think what this video shows so clearly is how keen Ounce is to please.  She wants to do it, whatever it is.  She offers me things I don’t ask for constantly, just in case that is what I want.  How lovely is that?

The video also demonstrates the importance of rewarding what you do want.  A couple of times when I have the target, (the lid) I miss her touching it, so she immediately loses confidence.  We haven’t practised it much, so need to work on that a lot more.

Here are my ideas for what else I want to teach her:

  • Bow
  • Hide face
  • Back through legs
  • Feet on feet
  • Carry a bag
  • Pick up keys
  • Bang on a door to shut it
  • Give high five (she gives a paw but I want more of a high five)
  • Wave
  • Cross paws
  • Play dead (lying flat on her side)
  • Tidy up her toys

What else? Please comment and let me know what you think she should learn to do? Some of these are quite complicated sequences of actions, so need a bit more tuition.  I don’t know how to teach some of these, so will need some help.  I also need to reinforce quite a few of the ones I’ve done already, as they are a bit haphazard still.

Thanks to Sarah Humphreys again for the training and Adam for the video.

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If you want to know more about Ounce’s Adventures, why not FOLLOW ME?  Then you will receive an email when there is a new post.  Please CONTACT ME if you have a problem you would like me to talk about?  And feel free to COMMENT if you want to tell me what you think.